Dogtown was founded in 1875 as a small mining settlement of
Irish, Welsh and German settlers, most of whom were clay miners.
The name of the district first originated from the dogs that
settlers kept for protection; these dogs nipped at the heels of the
tradesmen’s horses as they drove their wagons through what is today
Clayton Avenue, and on to the riverfront.
There is, however, another possible explanation as to how the
area came to be known as Dogtown.
The Philippine exhibit at the St. Louis World’s Fair of 1904
brought a settlement of the Igorot people to the St. Louis area,
specifically to Dogtown. The Igorot tribe quickly became infamous
apart from the other tribes in the exhibit for their custom of
eating dogs. The city of St. Louis provided the Igorots with a
supply of 20 dogs per week, but the mysterious disappearance of
dogs from the area suggests that this number was insufficient. Some
say that the term “hot dog” was coined at the World’s Fair to
capitalize from the sensationalism of this tribe’s unusual custom
in an endeavor to sell more wieners.
You won’t find many hot dogs in Dogtown, but you will find an
area rich with Irish heritage and St. Louis history. Smaller and
calmer than areas like the Loop and the Central West End, Dogtown
is home to both independent and family-owned establishments,
without a chain store in sight.
The easiest way to find Dogtown–the area of St. Louis roughly
bounded by McCausland Avenue to the west, Manchester Boulevard to
the south, Oakland Avenue to the north and Hampton Avenue to the
east–is to head for Turtle Park.
The giant turtles in this extension of Forest Park lie between
I-40 and Oakland Ave., no more than a stone’s throw from the
Hi-Pointe Theatre (1001 McCausland Ave., 995-6273). At the corner
of McCausland and Clayton, next to the world’s largest Amoco sign,
this theater is one of the few in the St. Louis area to showcase
those critically-acclaimed films that don’t make it into wider
release.
Most of Dogtown’s businesses–as well as the Catholic parish
church and grade school, St. James the Greater–lie along Tamm
Avenue. At the corner of Tamm and Oakland, across the street from
Turtle Park, is Pat’s Bar & Grill (1208 Tamm Ave., 647-6553).
The comfortable environment inside this well-established pub, part
of Dogtown since 1942, is frequented by locals and passers-by
alike. The fried food and freely-flowing Guinness are equal draws
to the thoroughly Irish establishment.
just down the street from Pat’s, at Cairdeas Coffee (1136 Tamm
Ave., 645-3972). Cairdeas, Gaelic for “friendship,” was once a bar
but reopened as a coffee shop in February. The walls are decorated
with local artwork, changed every week or two to feature different
artists. Comfortable chairs and couches provide a unique atmosphere
to relax–Wednesday and Sunday nights, students can receive
discounts with a valid student ID. Try the Red Headed Irish Nut, a
latte with Irish cream and Hazelnut syrups and topped with cinnamon
sugar.
Cairdeas offers more than just coffee, however–the menu also
features options for breakfast and lunch, including pizza, Paninis,
wraps and smoothies. The “Egglectic” Morning Breakfast Sandwich is
a trio of bacon, egg and cheese served on a bagel, croissant or
English muffin; like all of the breakfast options, it’s served all
day.
Felix’s (6335 Clayton Ave. at Tamm, 645-6565) is a restaurant
and bar boasting Happy Hour every night from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m.
Felix’s is not authentically Irish, but its live music and trendy
decor lend an exciting feel to the establishment.
Likewise, Chuy Arzola’s Tex-Mex Restaurant (6405 Clayton Ave. at
Tamm, 644-4430) has an outdoor patio and some of the city’s best
Mexican food. If Guinness isn’t your thing, try the margaritas
here.
Across Clayton Ave. from Felix’s is a store unique to both
Dogtown and St. Louis, Acme Guitars (6336 Clayton Ave. at Tamm,
645-6670). The sprawling collection of vintage guitars, amplifiers
and even microphones is worth stopping in to see even if you aren’t
looking to purchase.
Inside you will meet owner Mike Teepe, well-known throughout the
United States and the world for restoring one-of-a-kind custom
vintage guitars, which he provides for the likes of ZZ Top and
Emmylou Harris. Although Acme Guitars has been around for seven
years, Teepe has been in the business since the late 60s, when he
brought Fenders to English bands across the pond who had a penchant
for American guitars.
Acme is both a marketplace for used equipment and a reputable
place to take a guitar for repairs, with hard-to-find parts and
excellent craftsmanship at very reasonable prices.
If you are going to make one stop in Dogtown, make it Seamus
McDaniel’s (1208 Tamm Ave., 645-6337 or 645-5457). Jim Venincasa,
who now owns the pub with wife Susan, opened this Dogtown jewel
with late partner Danny 19 years ago. The pub’s name is formed from
the original owners’ names, using the Gaelic name for Jim,
Seamus.
Seamus McDaniel’s has a sports-bar atmosphere inside, complete
with mahogany, touches of green and high school sports memorabilia
from the 1940s. Outside, at the rear of the restaurant, is a
spacious patio that provides a relaxing place to have lunch or
dinner when weather permits. This pub’s generous seating areas make
it the perfect place to go with a group.
The American-pub cuisine is reasonably priced; the menu consists
of appetizers, pasta, chicken, steak and sandwiches and surely
includes everyone’s favorites. Try one of the delicious 10-ounce
burgers–Seamus McDaniel’s is known for them.
Mama Mia Spaghetteria (1227 Tamm Ave., 647-6969) is a small
Italian restaurant opened in the early 1950s that serves family
recipes and innovative dishes.
A little further down Tamm is Sugaree Baking Co. (1242 Tamm
Ave., 645-5496). This upscale bakery makes wedding cakes,
individual sweets and everything in between, and Cairdeas Coffee up
the street gets their pastries fresh from here each morning.
Garavaglia’s Deli and More (1420 Tamm Ave., 645-0033) is a
neighborhood grocery and deli that has all the basics, and all at
decent prices.
Dogtown’s annual St. Patrick’s Day Parade kicks off at Tamm Ave.
and Manchester Blvd. every year. The Ancient Order of Hibernians
lead a procession in full regalia, belting out Celtic tunes on
their bagpipes. Afterward, St. James the Greater Parish, located at
the corner of Tamm and Nashville Avenue, hosts a traditional
corned-beef-and-cabbage dinner. The parish also invites the
Hibernians to the annual Irish Country Fair, held in September of
each year. The event commences with an Irish liturgy and continues
on the school grounds across the street.
– Annie Boken
