Why did it have to be a Friday?

The words “forgive me, Father, for I have sinned” were already running through my head as I pulled up to Bogart’s Smokehouse in Soulard. When I caught the first whiff of barbecue, I will admit, I pushed my Catholic guilt to the side and hopped in the quickly forming line outside the door. Only a few days prior, I was completely unaware of Bogart’s existence, believing that the best barbecue in St. Louis was blocks away from SLU at Pappy’s Smokehouse.

A friend tipped me off that there was a small place on Lafayette Avenue that rivaled Pappy’s in taste, technique and quality. Feeling skeptical, I did a little research and was baffled to discover that the owner of Bogart’s was one of the men responsible for Pappy’s: the legendary Skip Steele.

Almost immediately I was face-to-face with the pit master himself, as he offered me a complimentary chicken wing. I bit into the glazed wing and was intrigued by the balance of smoke, sweet and tang. Steele explained these were his Pineapple Express chicken wings, the special menu item for that day.  The bites kicked up my taste buds, exciting me even more for the food to come.

I enlisted the wisdom of Bogart’s’ employees as I eyed the menu board. The general consensus was to absolutely go for the ribs, but to get a side of the pastrami, too. After a quick sample of the thinly sliced meat, I agreed and ordered the combo of a half slab and quarter pound of pastrami with two sides for $15.99.

On to the next decision– the sides. For those who love barbecue, you will recognize the agony in selecting a perfect accompaniment to your meal. Do you go classic and get the baked beans and slaw, or branch out with the BBQ pork skins and deviled egg potato salad? Once again, I asked my new friends and followed the advice of the cashier. His favorite was to use the Billy Goat potato chips as a dipping vehicle for the baked beans. Bingo. I was sold, and only had to find a seat to enjoy my lunch.

When the food came I went right for the ribs. Immediately I noticed the well-developed glaze, which Steele would later explain came from torching the slabs after applying a final baste of sauce. This last careful step forms a crispy, sugary seal around the rib that, when bitten into, gives way to the tender meat.

Next up, the pastrami. Spice from the brine plays with the depth of the smoke, creating a very pleasing flavor unlike any other pastrami I have tried. Experimenting with the different sauces at Bogart’s was also fun, with my personal favorite being the Voodoo, a well-controlled hot sauce bursting with flavor.

Having recognized my dilemma in sides, the crew at Bogart’s included a sample of the deviled egg potato salad and the slaw with my meal. Just one example of the great hospitality I received on my visit.

Following the orders of my new friend, I scooped up the baked beans with my potato chip and was instantly in love with the contradiction of textures and flavors. The chip brought in a salty crunch that elevated the sweet smokiness of the baked beans. I later learned one of the secrets to Steele’s delicious beans when he showed me the pits out back after my lunch. For 15 hours the beans are cooked slowly under the briskets, catching the drippings of the meat. This explains why the beans have such a rich complexity, and melt in your mouth.

Next, I tried the deviled egg potato salad. A marriage of two American classics, this crossbreed is a kicked-up version that is sure to please. The coleslaw was also delicious and well-executed, but not quite as notable as the pit baked beans or deviled egg potato salad.

After eating my fill and boxing up my leftovers, I had the great opportunity to talk with Steele about how he became such a well-known pit master here in St. Louis. Since the age of 14 he said has been interested in barbecue, building pits, experimenting with recipes and tinkering with techniques. Along the way he has drawn from flavor profiles of different cuisines to develop his own unique style.

In 2008, Steele and three others worked together to develop what has become the wildly popular and highly acclaimed Pappy’s Smokehouse. Even though success came quickly after Pappy’s’ doors were opened, Steele and his friends have remained quite humble. Their passion has and always will be to create delicious barbecue with the highest level of integrity to the ingredients, customers and traditions.

The only downside for Steele was the rigidity of the Pappy’s menu. He described the restaurant as a well-oiled machine that produces an exact amount each day, no more and no less. Creativity took a side seat, and the priority was more to replicate the perfect barbeque than to attempt new flavors or techniques. Thus, the concept of Bogart’s was developed as a place where Steele could freely create what he calls “craft barbecue.”

Steele opened Bogart’s in February of 2011 in a 1,000 square foot, 80-seat building. The space is nothing pretentious, but only reflects the attitude of the man in charge. Tuesday through Saturday the doors open at 10:30 a.m. and close when the barbecue runs out, which is typically around 4:00 p.m.

I would highly recommend arriving a little early to beat the lunch rush, because you will have a better chance of choosing from the full menu.  You may also make a new friend, because seating does get cozy, but I found this to be part of the charm of Bogart’s.

Unlike Pappy’s, Bogart’s offers a wider selection of barbecued items. Prime rib, sausages and turkey are all additions that are offered daily. Each day there is also a special item, such as the “burnt ends,” which are literally the coveted crispy edges of the brisket. Steele also likes to make different varieties of sausage, which all end up smoked on the pits. Most items on the menu come with two sides, with sandwiches ranging from $6.75 to $10.99, and plates from $9.99 to $14.99. The combos are great for sharing, and come in half or full slabs with a quarter pound of any meat for $15.99 and $23.99.

I left Bogart’s with an incredible appreciation for the dedication of Skip Steele and his staff. They are offering something truly unique for St. Louis, and we are lucky to have them in the area. So, “forgive me, Father, for eating four different kinds of meat on a Friday during Lent.”

Actually, sorry I’m not sorry, Padre, because it was worth every bite!