Glowing lamplight and the trickling of an archaic
southern-fountain may best describe the character of Soulard–St.
Louis’ historic downtown district. On a cool night, the patio of
John D. McGurk’s Irish Pub (1200 Russell, 776-8309), provider of
this picturesque scene, will surely be elbow –to-elbow with well
dressed bar-goers aged anywhere from their 20s to 50s. Still, in
spite of the capacity crowd, McGurk’s manages to find itself as one
of the top, relaxing bar atmospheres in St. Louis. The newly
expanded patio now features two outdoor bars along with seating for
dining or simply enjoying a drink. On many nights, live Irish bands
are the feature entertainment; on others, there may be no more than
a Frank Sinatra record playing faintly in the background with the
welcome hum of the crowd dominating the scene.

McGurk’s is a fine location for drinks and food alike. The tap
lineup is what would be expected of any Irish establishment,
complete with Guinness and Harp as well as a variety of domestics,
and other British-Isles imported stouts and lagers. If going for a
meal, McGurk’s serves up corned beef and cabbage, steaks and
burgers and the more unique “Guinness stew.”

Like McGurk’s, the scene in Soulard is eclectic if anything.
Turn-of-the-century homes and bars blend with a young crowd just as
easily as long-time pub veterans. The area attracts huge a crowd
pre and post Cardinal games with its close proximity to the
stadium. During the day, the Soulard Farmer’s Market sells crafts
and fresh fruit directly from Missouri and Illinois farmers. At
night, live bands pack the pubs–ranging anywhere from classic
blues at the 1860s Hardshell Caf� and Bar to cheesy 80s
cover bands at the Great Grizzly Bear. If a Greek, you certainly
have or will attend a variety of functions in the bar-laden
district. If a general bar-hopping-hound, it’s impossible to avoid.
Truly, Soulard has a little bit of everything for everyone.

If looking to lay down some cash for a date, the Sidney Street
Caf� (2000 Sidney, 771-5777) gives ample opportunity to do
so. Though pricey, it always proves worth the money. Their grilled
steak, seafood and tenderloin entrees are the best Soulard has to
offer. Likewise, a night at Sidney Street is also sure to score
some serious points with the significant other as it consistently
ranks among St. Louis’ most romantic locales. Reservations are a
must–far in advance for special occasions such as Valentine’s
Day.

Tucker’s Place (2117 S. 12th, 772-5977) may be the best
no-jacket-required spot for getting a steak in all of St. Louis. In
shouting distance of McGurk’s, Tucker’s boasts a downstairs bar
complimented by an upstairs restaurant which serves enough red meat
to take 10 years off your life. The prices, however, will not. A
New York strip that approaches perfection usually runs no more than
$15.

Joanie’s Pizzeria (2101 Menard, 865-1994) offers a menu with a
little more style and substance than the classic, cracker-thin St.
Louis pizza panache. And while’s there’s certainly no knocks on
Imo’s and the like as a late night snack–Joanie’s can stand alone
as a night out or a hefty lunch.

Finally, no trip to Soulard would be complete without visiting,
or at least paying homage to, the King of Beers and champion of St.
Louis commerce, The Anheuser-Busch Brewery (600 Pestalozzi,
577-2626). Free tours of the world’s largest brewery offer a
history behind A-B, a look at the brewing process, a visit to the
Clydesdale stable and, for those with proper identification, a free
sample of one of their many products.

This year, the area will bring together the first-annual Soulard
Oktoberfest, from Oct. 22-23 with a 27-piece German brass band and
certainly, an ample sample of leiderhosen and bier. And, as
well-known as Soulard itself is the Mardi Gras parade and festival
Soulard hosts annually–the St. Louis celebration of pre-Lenten
debauchery claims itself second only to the Big Easy.

-Robert Seefeldt