Bogart’s: Not quite Pappy’s


Across the street from Mission Taco lies Pappy’s younger brother of a restaurant, Bogart’s. The menu and food are basically identical. The difference is the feel. Bogart’s is a fraction of the size, with guests basically walking through the kitchen and storage area to get to the bathroom. Bogart’s does have a few advantages, however, which includes outside seating, shorter wait time and different BBQ sauces than those found at Pappy’s.

With a row of picnic tables occupying the sidewalk space between the exterior wall of the restaurant and the street curb, guests are able to enjoy the comfortable autumn weather and warm sunshine in all of its glory. The outside seating area also includes a sound system, which helps create a comfortable space and drown out the noise of traffic.

Like Pappy’s, Bogart’s is an order-at-the-counter restaurant. Staff will bring your food to you, but do not expect much else. When the waiter asked if my friend and I would like an additional plate, to share a full slab of ribs with two sides, she promised to return with it. She never did. Rather than get up ourselves, or try and catch her eye, we decided to dive in, improvising with the paper towels kept on each table.

If the ribs are basically the same at Pappy’s and Bogart’s, the difference is in the sauces, including a sweet pineapple sauce and an unfortunate, watery vinegar sauce that is closer to a cleaning solution than anything I would want near my ribs. Bogart’s also has one other unfortunate, although common, aspect to its restaurant: kiddie cups for those who wish to drink water. I have never understood this. Just because I do not want to drink pop, does not mean that I only want to have a tiny sip of water. Either to discourage water drinkers, or to distinguish customers who have paid for the full soda fountain versus that who have not, Bogart’s grants the best of wishes to water drinkers with a clear cup the size of something that your dentist might expect you to rinse out your mouth after a regular cleaning. Either bring your own water bottle or plastic cup, because unless you are a 3-year-old, you will likely need to make multiple trips inside for a refill. Plastic water pitchers could also be an option for Bogart’s, but they would first need to have attentive waiters before that could happen.

Back to the food. Bogart’s is basically Pappy’s without the line. It is no surprise since Walter “Skip” Steele and three former Pappy’s employees own Bogart’s. The ribs are top-notch and hardly need any sauce at all, although three of the four sauces are quite good, with only the vinegar sauce leaving my friend and I wanting something more.

As for the sides, the beans were exceptional, as were the pork rinds. Serving suggestion: dip the pork rinds in the beans like a chip. Not something I would have normally otherwise have done, but our inattentive and forgetful waiter left my friend and I with no other choice short of eating with our bare hands. One full slab of ribs and two sides was more than enough for two adults, so don’t bother paying the extra money when you can just split one meal.

In short, if you are looking for great BBQ without the hassle of Pappy’s, go to Bogart’s, but bring your water bottle, too. Go soon, because the outdoor seating will not last the winter, and the inside probably seats less than your grandma’s table at Thanksgiving.

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