Before diving into some of my favorite shows of this past fashion week, let’s cover a few of the basics that may have been discussed at the shows this year. First, the fabrics in the shows were all over the place. The start of the week featured more sheer pieces, and the emphasis shifted later to layering those pieces with more structured looks or heavier knits.
The designers really upped their game this year in terms of set. Marc Jacobs was in a theatre, while Tommy Hilfiger recreated a literal island feel with sand and water. The creativity was at an all time high. In addition to material things, the topics of inspiration were unbelievably touching. From low-income families, transgender people, lower education, segregation and feminist discussion, fashion week was all across the board. Designer Dao-Yi Chow thinks that the Spring 2016 looks were “more sophisticated [than before and] really helping to define femininity as a means to us.”
Alexander Wang was one of my favorite shows and was very LA-inspired. The girl Wang was searching for is a young woman who has traveled around the world and incorporated different parts of the different cultural styles into her own closet. She is the girl on the city streets whose style you admire for its boldness.
Marc Jacobs’ show was put on at the Ziegfeld Theatre. With movie posters, popcorn and a live band, this was unlike any other fashion show. Marc Jacobs talks about how his models became “slightly worn stars in my theater production.” The colors of the show were a little bit all over the place; however, the red, blues, creams and whites brought it all together. The show could be described as magical and a blast from the past, but with renewed ideas.
With Oscar de la Renta’s recent passing, his team had to consider things he was passionate about. Peter Copping, the top designer for Oscar de la Renta, says Spain is the first thing that came to mind in honor of de la Renta’s background. Copping looked at the pieces individually, thinking first if they were right for the show and secondly if they were new and interesting. He says, “I like a sophisticated woman, I like femininity and even if it’s some of my own aesthetics creeping in, I still think it feels right.”
Hood by Air, a collection by designer Shayne Oliver, places an emphasis on gender and education. Lee Daniels, viewer of the Hood by Air show, said in an interview for Vogue, “What is gender? We are in a new place in America where we can’t define gender [or] what boys and girls should be wearing. I think [Hood by Air] stands by that and it’s a statement.”
Within the show, Oliver embodies the idea of kids going to school in Trinidad and having higher education while living in such poor conditions. For instance, the children’s school uniform couldn’t even hold together, but they had to look good regardless. Oliver states the people in Trinidad are “in the lowest part of the earth with the highest level of thought.”
Strictly clothing wise, Rachel Zoe and Tory Burch were two of my personal favorites. With similar lines, both are reflective of my style. Rachel Zoe’s elegant yet bohemian vibe is one I aspire to achieve. Her show was filled with fringe and tassels, just like Tory Burch. Both designers went for longer lengths in skirts (which is so exciting) and the combination of sheer with knit.
The Spring 2016 New York Fashion Week was a huge success. As we saw this year, more and more designers are incorporating awareness and philanthropy into their presentations. Looks were bolder than ever and designers reached to make a difference. The fashion industry has more influence than accredited. With a voice as loud as theirs, designers should feel inclined to use it for good.